Visiting Puerto Vallarta, 72 hours in a gay paradise

The beach resort city of Puerto Vallarta is a vacation pilgrimage for many in the LGBTQ+ community, and for good reason.

The city, located in the state of Jalisco, has been called “the gay capital of Mexico” because it has a whole district of hotels, restaurants, clubs, bathhouses, strip clubs, performance venues, bars, and shops catering to LGBTQ+ vacationers.

Puerto Vallarta celebrated same-sex marriage and union ceremonies long before Mexico legalized same-sex marriage in 2022.

Also, Vallarta Pride is a week-long celebration in May.

Those queer destinations are located in  the Zona Romántica, which also includes the gay-friendly Playa de los Muertos. The “blue chairs” section of the beach, at the southern portion near the end, is where the gays flock.

Puerto Vallarta is very welcoming to the community, obviously, and people’s hospitality is impeccable and authentic.

The exchange rate between the dollar and peso makes the city very affordable. It’s also just a quick three-hour flight from the Los Angeles area.

The exchange rate between the dollar and peso makes the city very affordable. It’s also just a quick three-hour flight from the Los Angeles area.

With the Sierra Madre mountain range as a backdrop, Puerto Vallarta sits on the massive Banderas Bay. Cobblestone streets, filled in many places with taco stands and vendors, evoke old Mexican villages.

Casa Kimberly

Puerto Vallarta’s popularity as a beach resort city escalated during the 1960s when John Huston made the 1964 film “The Night of the Iguana.” At the time, the city was considered a sleepy fishing town.

Burton rented Huston’s home, Casa Kimberly, for Taylor. The residence just happened to be across the street from Burton’s villa.

Casa Kimberly is located in Colonia Emiliano Zapata, one of the city’s most popular neighborhoods. As the story goes, Burton and Taylor’s torrid love affair helped inspire the area to be nicknamed the Zona Romántica.

Casa Kimberly has been converted into a boutique hotel and restaurant.

Taylor became enduring to the gay community in the 1980s when she became the first major Hollywood star to speak out as an HIV/AIDS activist.

Weather, sunsets

Due to its short flight distance, Puerto Vallarta makes an ideal 72-hour vacation, a wonderful weekend getaway.

Due to Puerto Vallarta’s tropical climate, the summer months are very, very, very humid and filled with intense thunderstorms that dump buckets of rain for hours at a time.

On the flip side, fall, winter, and spring bring loads of sunshine and beautiful weather. The colorful sunsets in Puerto Vallarta are some of the best. You can watch them while relaxing on the beach, sailing on Banderas Bay, or enjoying dinner at a beach restaurant.

Thanksgiving, Christmas, New Year’s Eve, and Semana Santa (Easter week) are super popular times with LGBTQ+ travelers.

Here are sights, sounds, and smells to consider for a gaycation.

Puerto Vallarta Gay TRavel

If you’re looking for a resort-spa hotel away from the hustle and bustle, Costa Sur is the place. Just up the hill from Zona Romántica, this property offers amazing views with their rooms overlooking Banderas Bay. Photo: Costa Sur

Hotels

Costa Sur

If you’re looking for a resort-spa hotel away from the hustle and bustle, Costa Sur is the place. Just up the hill from Zona Romántica, this property offers amazing views with their rooms overlooking Banderas Bay. The beds are comfortable.

Costa Sur is just 10 minutes by rideshare to the Zona Romántica and the Malecón where you can find shopping, premiere dining, and day excursions. The winding road is dangerous to walk, though some people may chance it.

Costa Sur also boasts a private beach and lagoon, where guests can swim. Hotel staff is available to book various activities, including snorkeling, kayaking, and paddle boarding.

Costa Sur has a large pool, two bars, a gym, a spa, and an ocean view restaurant with a wide selection on the menu. Breakfast includes a basket of fresh pan dulce.

It’s worth noting that Costa Sur has had a long practice of hosting a same-sex wedding ceremonies, years before same-sex marriage was legalized in Mexico in 2022. In fact, it was one of the first venues in Puerto Vallarta to offer same-sex marriage services.

Puerto Vallarta Gay Travel

Costa Sur also boasts a private beach and lagoon, where guests can swim. Hotel staff is available to book various activities, including snorkeling, kayaking, and paddle boarding. Photo: Q Voice News

Hotel Playa Los Arcos

This all-inclusive beachfront resort is located on one of Puerto Vallarta’s best beaches, Playa del Sol, in the heart of the vibrant Zona Romántica and just steps away from the pier and the Malecón.

Resort-style amenities include an infinity pool and pool bar, and oceanfront dining.

Excursions

Malecón

This pedestrian-only boardwalk along Banderas Bay spans 12 blocks and is dotted with eateries, tequila bars, clothing and jewelry stores, and sweet shops. Vendors sell street food, artisan goods, and traditional sweets. The Malecón is well known for its huge bronze sculptures and acrobatic street performers. It’s also a great place for people watching.

Tilt Puerto Vallarta

Tilt is the first 3D art museum in Puerto Vallarta. Visitors are encouraged to interact with the artworks, take photos, and share them. It’s the brainchild of Tracy Lee, who has worked in 3D anamorphic art since 1998. Photo: Q Voice News

Tilt

Tilt is the first 3D art museum in Puerto Vallarta. Visitors are encouraged to interact with the artworks, take photos, and share them. It’s the brainchild of Tracy Lee, who has worked in  3D anamorphic art since 1998. She uses street painting as her inspiration. Her first museum is located at the American Dream Mall at East Rutherford, New Jersey.

Lee’s art made for audience interaction, and that’s the foundation for Tilt. Many of the 3D murals are surreal scenarios (jungles, dolphins leaping out of the ocean, catacombs, famous Mexican artists) jumping at the viewer.

Tilt also includes a cocktail bar with numerous signature drinks that are as tantalizing as the murals. Tickets are required for admission.

Vallarta Adventures

Looking to catch one of Puerto Vallarta’s magnificent sunsets by boat? Hop aboard a sunset-sailing tour at Vallarta Adventures. This three-hour trip across the Banderas Bay offers a breathtaking sunset along with an open bar and hors d’oeuvres. The tour operates rain or shine. On our particular trip, we encountered a minor shower. But after 10-15 minutes, it cleared, and the trip was smooth sailing.

Taste

Vallarta Food Tours

Some of the best food In Puerto Vallarta is only served at night. The street is the best way to find the tastiest local tacos and Vallarta Food Tours is a fun and exciting way to experience it. Save your appetite and wear comfortable shoes because this three-hour evening walking food tour takes you to the food stands that are only open later in the day and offer some of the best authentic regional tacos. The seven tastings are a mix taco stands and sit down small eateries. The tacos include carne asada, al pastor, seafood, marlin, and cabeza. Vegetarian options are available at some places. The tour ends with an agave spirit tasting. But the tour is more than tasting food. At every stop, our guide shared the story behind the dish, including the history of each restaurant and regional Mexican dish. She also told us about some of the highlights of Puerto Vallarta’s rich local culture, including its LGBTQ+ history.

Puerto Vallarta Cafe des Artistes

Café des Artistes is an iconic Puerto Vallarta staple renowned for its elegant fine dining plus chamber music and a fabulous garden terrace. Take a minute, or two, and a peek at the bronze male statue in the garden. Chef and owner Thierry Blouet opened Café des Artistes in 1991. Photo: Café des Artistes

Café des Artistes

Café des Artistes is an iconic Puerto Vallarta staple renowned for its elegant fine dining plus chamber music and a fabulous garden terrace. Take a minute, or two, and a peek at the bronze male statue in the garden. Chef and owner Thierry Blouet opened Café des Artistes in 1991. The service is great, and the ambiance is very romantic. At the table next to ours, a man proposed to his lady in waiting. It looked like she said yes. Our tropical inspired signature cocktails were served in adorable white ceramic cups in the shape of a chiseled male torso. Double yummy. The gourmet menu is a fusion of French and Mexican cuisine with vegetarian and vegan options. Tasting menus also are available. The desserts are decadent and delicious. 

Café des Artistes has a dress code: smart casual/elegant; beach wear or sleeveless shirts are not allowed.

Noroc Puerto Vallarta

Noroc is located next to Playa de Los Muertos and has great views of the Banderas Bay and the magnificent sunset. Also, the circular booths are submerged in water, not that you want to splash around during dinner, but it is a cute, innovative atmosphere. Photo: Q Voice News

Noroc

One of the newer restaurants in the Zona Romántica, Noroc (Romanian for “lucky”) is elegant dining with top notch service. It’s located next to Playa de Los Muertos and has great views of Banderas Bay and the magnificent sunset. Also, the circular booths are submerged in water, not that you want to splash around during dinner, but it is a cute, innovative atmosphere. The kitchen serves upscale fusion of Mexican, Peruvian, and Eastern European cuisine with vegan options. Make sure to try one, or two, signature cocktails. Cheers.

Nightlife:

The Zona Romántica is party central for nightlife. The area is peppered with approximately 30 different spots, including dance clubs, bars, and strip clubs. Advance warning —the gorgeous go-go dancers at the strip clubs, such as Wet Dreams, are very frisky. How frisky? If you make eye contact with one of them, even subtle eye contact, he will make a beeline to you like a guided missile. Then, the dancer will encourage you to touch his missile, and even invite you to a private dark room, but be prepared. You are expected to tip him (starting at $100 pesos) if you touch, or more. It’s considered rude behavior if you don’t tip.

Puerto Vallarta gay nightlife

The Zona Romántica is party central for nightlife. The area is peppered with approximately 30 different spots, including dance clubs, bars, and strip clubs. Q Voice News

Wet Dreams is steps from several hot spots in the neighborhood, including Mr. Flamingo (American pop and Top 40), La Noche (circuit music in a three-level bar with sexy go-go dancers; the rooftop is a great place to drink and socialize), Paco’s Ranch (pop, dance, Latin music), CC Slaughters (circuit music), Industry (circuit party music), Studs Bear Bar (frisky music), and Anonimo (a video bar). On many weekends, but especially during holidays, these places are packed and the party spills on the sidewalk. Drinking is allowed on the sidewalk. Some places have a cover, but not all of them. Most places have waiters who will get your drinks so you don’t have to wait in the crowded lines to the bar. Make sure to tip them.

If you’re interested in sampling the various bars or want to learn about the nightlife options, consider the Gay Bar Tour. No waiting for drinks, the bill, or change. They take care of everything, and explain tipping etiquette. The regular gay bar tour visits four bars of your choice of drag show bars, bear bars, dance bars, strip clubs, go-go bars, or local Mexican cantinas. The Sexxy Gay Bar Tour will visit a combination of strip clubs, bars with go-go dancers, bars with dark rooms, or bars with fetish, erotic or live sex shows

About the author

Phillip Zonkel

Award-winning journalist Phillip Zonkel spent 17 years at Long Beach's Press-Telegram, where he was the first reporter in the paper's history to have a beat covering the city's vibrant LGBTQ. He also created and ran the popular and innovative LGBTQ news blog, Out in the 562.

He won two awards and received a nomination for his reporting on the local LGBTQ community, including a two-part investigation that exposed anti-gay bullying of local high school students and the school districts' failure to implement state mandated protections for LGBTQ students.

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